Sew Long Summer Blog Tour 2018

Welcome to my stop on the Sew Long Summer 2018 Blog Tour. This blog tour is all about transitions – for those in the Northern Hemisphere Summer is about to end, while down her in Australia, we are just entering Spring and looking forward to a long, hot Summer.

So I’ve started to think about clothes that will transition between the seasons. There are some clothes that only suit one season and I always feel very sad when I look at them hanging in my closet, waiting for the right season. The dress that I made to share today, is one that will do just as well for now, and well in Summer too.

(and yes – it has pockets!)

The Inspiration

I have used a tried and true pattern to make this dress, but I was inspired by some vintage patterns, in particular – the bateau neckline, as featured in many vintage patterns from the end of the 1950s, like this cute top, Simplicity 3433.

Big floofy sleeves also seem to be popular! They appear again in this Simplicity 3347.

I really love the reversible kimono sleeve jacket that comes in this Simplicity 2407, I think I might have to make that one.

This Simplicity 3782 comes with elbow length sleeves, and a very cute collar option.

And this pattern is the only one out of this lot that is not a printed pattern, this one is a pre-cut pattern!

Back to the floofy sleeves with Simplicity 3338.

Sometimes vintage patterns come with some gems inside, this one came with a large advertisement for the 4th edition of the Simplicity Sewing Book, as well as a complete measurement chart for all sizes of their patterns including girls, teens, misses and women, juniors, half-sizes, and even toddlers and children, boys, and men! Certainly an interesting read.

The Pattern

So, I used my regular fitted bodice, that I’ve been working on for…quite a while now! (see this post for the story and more links to other versions). This pattern originally comes from Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book. I modified the neckline to mimic the bateau featured in the vintage patterns above, but it is perhaps not quite as wide – I need to have my bra straps covered!

I quite like the neckline, but I think I would like it even more if it were about 1 inch lower at the centre front (with a nice gentle curve back to the shoulder, of course!). But I am very happy with this dress, and will save that modification for another version.

I noticed that all the vintage dress patterns above, have skirts that are cut as rectangles, none of the full skirts are circle, a-line or have curved hems at all. So I used the width of the fabric – actually, almost the width of the fabric, the printed pattern is not quite centred – and pleated it at the sides only, I find this to be quite flattering.

I also used the puffed sleeve pattern from Gertie’s book, I didn’t add the binding at the hems though, I just did a small hem.

The Fabric

This fabric is a printed calico. So, it is really good for summer as it is so light weight but it doesn’t need lining. However, it isn’t really warm enough for winter, I am investigating options for adding a separate layer underneath, both for warmth, and to stop the skirt from wrapping itself around my legs when I walk.

A fair bit of pattern matching was required. The motif is large enough that a mis-match would be fairly obvious. So, I put a bit of extra thought into it, and was quite surprised at how well I did the back seam either side of my invisible zipper.

The pattern is level horizontally all around the skirt, although it doesn’t match exactly at the sides or back, but it does flow well.

What I didn’t do very well, was pattern matching between my bodice and skirt. I got the motif centred okay, but…

And this was right at the front, centre, on my middle – exactly the worst possible place to have a badly mis-matched print. So I had to fix it. I decided to fold the skirt portion under the bodice and re-stitch it. I took it up about 1 inch.

It actually wasn’t as hard as I thought it was going to be. I graduated the stitching line in behind the pleats and the result, ended up just fine.

It is still a bit lumpy on the inside, so I will have to trim that and re-neaten the seam. My overlocker is away getting serviced, so that will have to wait a few days.

Transitions

This has turned out to be one of my favourite dresses ever, it is just so comfortable to wear. And it is so easy to wear as well, I have been wearing it with opaque tights and a cardigan, while it is still cold.

And it will easily transition into summer with a change of shoes and a good sunhat. I can see that I will be wearing this one all summer long!

Welcome to the Sew Long Summer blog tour. We’re going to have a fun one this year.

A nice group of sewing bloggers are going to share with you how we say “Sew Long Summer” and we’ll be asking you to join in with a Social Sew too (read on for details and prizes)

Sew Long Summer is all about getting those transitional wardrobe pieces ready; finishing up all those things we meant to make this summer; and well, basically whatever Sew Long Summer means to you.

 

Share what you’ve been making to say “Sew Long Summer” to be entered into our random drawing.

Continental US participants will be entered to win a $20 store credit from Simply by Ti Fabrics.

All other participants will be entered to win a pattern of choice from DG Patterns.

To enter, please tag your sewing project with #SewLongSewcial18 on Instagram or facebook. You can also leave a link in the comments on the mahlicadesigns intro post. Please limit your entries to items you’ve sewn between Sept 10th and Sept 28th 2018. Winners will be notified and announced shortly thereafter.

We can’t wait to see what you’re making.

The full tour includes these talented sewists, so I hope you’ll follow along this week.

Sept. 10th Sewing A La Carte, Tenille’s Thread, A Custom Clothier, Made for Little Gents, Miss Marah Sewn

Sept. 11th Manning the Machine, mahlicadesigns, Sewing Vortex, Crafting Fiend

Sept. 12th Auschick Sews, Aurora Design Fabrics, My Heart Will Sew On, Vicky Myers Creations

Sept. 13th Flaxfield Sewing, Sewing with D, Musings of a Seamstress, Make it Sew with the Bear and Pea Atelier, Petite Font

Sept. 14th Sewing à la Carte, Sewing by Ti, Stitches by Laura, Sewing with Sarah, My Sewing Roots

22 Comments

  1. Happy to see your TNT block is at it again in this dress and cudos to you for the pattern matching. I seem to do an o.k. job on smaller prints and stripes, but the larger prints mess me up.
    I’m so glad you can style it for more than one season.

  2. This dress is spot on, and that pattern matching is perfect! I love your vintage pattern collection!!! I wish I had my grandma’s collection. My aunt inherited it and stores it in her hot attic 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦

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