This year I made a commitment to myself that I would make a really good, warm zip-up hoodie for winter. And I did! There were a few firsts here for me such as the way that the zipper is inserted and … basically I had never really made anything like this for myself, even though I have made so many hoodies for my kids. So, I put in a bit of extra effort with this one, I did a full lining, I used some of my ‘special’ fabric, and tried some new-to-me sewing techniques, and I have to say that I am pretty darn pleased with myself.
Of course I used some of my favourite fabrics, the other is a denim hacci from Knitpop, it is incredibly soft and luxurious. I also used the hacci for the cuffs and pocket trims.
The lining is a poly/cotton blend from Sincerely Rylee, this print is really fun and it just happened to be the perfect colour match for my hacci, so even though it was originally intended for something else, this is what it ended up being – and I don’t regret it at all.
I used the Finnleys’ Jordis Pattern. This is a German pattern, and it is available on the Makerist.de website, however, it does come in a version with English instructions. I was drawn to this pattern because of its asymmetrical zipper and wrap around hood – it looks so warm and snuggly, and it is.
Unfortunately, the pattern pieces are not in English, they are still in German, and this pattern has a lot of pieces! This is because there are separate pieces for the lining, facings, cowl, hood etc. its certainly a lot more pieces than what I have been used to lately, and it is quite a bit of a jigsaw puzzle to put them all together. But, I managed it, and the English instructions do help, although I am getting quite good at recognising the German sewing terms.
This pattern has princess seams and also comes with the additional pieces for an included FBA! That is a Full Bust Adjustment, in case you aren’t familiar with that term. This means that I was able to get a good fit around the shoulders by using the additional pieces, which eliminated the problem of gigantic armscyes that I usually have.
This pattern can also be made with woven fabrics – like denim etc – so I used my regular sewing machine for almost all the sewing. Also, because it is fully lined, I did not overlock the raw edges at all.
Because this is a fairly advanced pattern, I did follow the instructions fairly closely, with one exception – I also lined the sleeves, which is not included in the pattern although it is mentioned. There may be a tutorial for doing it, but I couldn’t find one specifically, so I took a whole lot of pictures along the way to show you how I did the lining so that it is completely enclosed, with no exposed seams whatsoever!
Preparing the Lining
The first step that I made, in order to be able to line the sleeves, was to leave a small gap along one side seam of the bodice lining when joining the front to back. Just like this:
This gap will be used for turning later on.
I then continued to sew the pattern as per the instructions.
Attaching the Sleeves
I used the outer sleeve pattern for the lining sleeves as well, with no changes. I attached the lining sleeves at the same time that I attached the outer sleeves, which with this pattern is right at the end. I did this keeping the outer and lining separate so that it looks like some weird two tone fabric spider, like this:
Attaching the Cuffs
I am going to stitch the sleeve outers and linings together whilst sandwiching the cuffs in-between. So first, I need to prepare the cuffs. I start by folding the outer sleeve edges to the wrong side but about an inch or two – it doesn’t need to be precise:
Next I am going to prepare the cuffs so that there is only a single seam, which will reduce bulk and help to keep the seams aligned. To do this I fold the cuff lengthwise with right sides together:
And then, keeping the raw edges at the top I fold the cuff back along itself:
Then stitch all four raw edges together at once:
Now it looks like it is somehow twisted and won’t work:
But when its turned with the right sides out:
It will look perfect!
And of course, I need two of these:
I slip these over my sleeves so that the raw edges are lined up together:
Joining the Sleeve Outer and Lining
This is the weird looking tricky part. The lining sleeves need to be slipped over the cuffs so that all the raw edges – the outer sleeve, cuff, and sleeve lining – are aligned together. It can be a bit fiddly to do, and it is especially important to make sure that the sleeves or linings are not twisted at all.
And stitch! So now my jacket looks like this:
Remember that gap I left in the side seam of the bodice lining? Its time to pull the entire jacket through that gap so that is the right way out.
And I now have perfectly enclosed cuffs on the inside:
And the outside:
The side seam in the lining just needs a few hand stitches to close it, and its near-enough invisible.
I added a black snap to the shoulder.
And I inserted some eyelets for the drawcord. I only purchased the large green tool to do these earlier this year – the novelty has not worn off yet, I am still keen to add them to everything!
I managed to find drawcord at Lincraft that perfectly matched my fabric – it really was a complete fluke! The zip colour was also a good match, I was originally going to just use a black zip, but I had trouble finding one the right length at Spotlight, so I went to Lincraft and they had this one – perfect!
I did reverse-coverstitching for most of the topstitching using a dark petrol coloured thread, I am still just getting to know my coverstitch machine (after having it for nearly two years), so this is also a new-to-me technique.
So, my Jordis got a lot of wear this winter. It is one of my favourites makes for this year, and I will probably make another one next year, noting the following:
– it will be easier to make the second time around, the facings and bands are a bit fiddly and hard to visualise for the spacially-challenged like me, so for most of this journey I was feeling like it wasn’t going to turn out right (I have had experiences with sewing infinite loops in the past). I also now have the pattern pieces printed, cut out and I have written the English labels on them.
– the zipper length is an odd one. I think that if I were more prepared I would invest in a longer zipper and the proper “stops” so that I can adjust it to the perfect length. The zip that I used was not quite the right length – it is close enough, but about 3cm more would have been perfect.
– I stitched most of this using my regular sewing machine. I only used the overlocker for the pocket openings and cuffs. I would also use the overlocker for the neck seams where the hood joins the bodice, mainly because this is the one seam that popped, and I had to restitch it by hand, so a stretch stitch would have been better here.
– I also found that the notch for the waistband didn’t match up where it was supposed to, although that may have been my error, the piece may have been upside down or something, I don’t know, it left me with a slightly wonky waistband in places, I also had trouble turning one of the corners at the lower end of the zip, no matter how I clipped the seam allowance, so there was something not quite right there – again, it was a spacially-challenged thing I think.
Thanks for reading!