Sorry its been quiet, but I’ve been a bit busy making something a little bit different. This outfit is for the nephew of a friend, a costume for the character Ciel Phantomhive from the Black Butler manga series.
I used mostly Ottobre patterns to make this, with a few things drafted myself. I originally made a muslin for the jacket out of some bright orange poplin that I have in my stash (not sure why, but its there – I think the muslin will be turned into a pirate jacket or similar for the kids to play dress-ups in). At the fitting of that, I sized everything up aand added 2 inches to the length of everything. I’m hoping that with these adjustments it will all fit the young man just right.
The outfit consists of a jacket with detachable bow, shirt, bow tie and shorts.
I actually made something very similar to this for myself when I was a teenager, mine was black velvet with a purple satin lining. This jacket however, is royal blue Panama stretch suiting.
It is a double-breasted frock coat with front patch pockets. The buttons are a vintage find. They are metal, but are surprisingly light weight.
The collar and pocket flaps are made from black taffeta. I chose taffeta to use for the accessories because it has a good shimmer and holds its shape well.
To construct this jacket I used a unique method that I had never tried before. It worked like magic and gave really neat seams for the sleeves and hem – which are always really fiddly with a lined jacket. The details of this method can be found here. I’ll definitely be doing this in the future.
The back of the jacket features a large black taffeta bow.
The bow is detachable, for reasons of practicality. And the jacket can be worn without it.
And although I tried multiple different methods of attaching it – from brooch clip to kilt pin, in the end I went with the very low-tech safety pin! It just works the best.
The shirt is a fairly simple white poplin shirt. It has buttons down the front and two buttons on each cuff. Because this shirt is for a young man, there are none of the shape giving darts that I would normally use. The collar is small and rounded at the front. It can be worn sitting up under the necktie, or folded down on its own.
The hem, although not pictured, is slightly curved.
This character wears shorts, so shorts I made. They are pretty basic, I cheated a little and did a mostly elastic waistband. Although I did add a zipper to the front, and another shiny metal button closure.
The bow tie
The bow tie is just a bunch of taffeta tubes joined together. The taffeta was pretty hard going for the sewing machine – its too dense. I ended up hand sewing most of this item.
For the bit that goes around the neck, I threaded some elastic through a taffeta tube and used a black plastic snap fastener to close. This way, it is completely adjustable.
I had troubles taking the photos for this post, for one thing it was really windy, and I was trying to take pictures with good light, so I was constantly rearranging and waiting for the gusts to stop. Also, the mannequin is a girl, and this outfit is for a young man. So, the mannequin was a little too ” busty” when set to the right measurements, but when I shrank her down, the shoulders were not wide enough. Although I think even my largest wooden coat hangers were not wide enough to match this suit!
Thanks for reading.